Byzantium Ensemble for Sarah of Wicked Smileys

This spring, I worked on a lovely folkloric style ensemble for an accomplished dancer, but new performer, Sarah of Wicked Smileys. She performed with Troupe Celine twice this spring, first at Spring Rakkasah and at an Asian American cultural festival. Her ensemble is composed of four garments. Her Byzantium bra features a row of multi-colored inch-wide ribbon, 8 inch chainette fringe topped with three rows of Pakistani coins.

Sarah's belt is an assemblage of components that began with a blue embroidered belt with a row of kuchi drops. To extend this tiny belt, we mounted a collar from Pakistan onto grosgrain ribbon and filled in the space between with additional drops. To add texture and dimension, we further embellished the belt with a row of Turkomen buttons that matched the buttons we used to accent the stretch velvet baladi dress.

To get the rich, dark appearance that Sarah craved, we used a vivid red double-plush 4-way stretch velvet cut with the grain going upwards. Because the velvet had such a great hand and enough stretch to really mold around the body, I kept the cut simple, with shaping down the side seams and no darts. The neckline was cut low below the bust to reveal the bra. To add style and make the garment look beautifully polished, we added the sumptuous finishing details of fully lined sleeves and Turkoman buttons. The result is simple and elegant.

Sarah already had a functional pair of black harem pants. On her feet, she choose to wear classic Hermes style sandals. I also crafted jewelry using a kuchi drop with her signature Smiley motif and a pair of earrings.

But, what makes this collaboration so effective is the amazing headdress Sarah created to match this ensemble. Her work is breathtakingly complex and lovely.

Ultimately, this ensemble took into account Sarah's figure. The long lean lines of red velvet emphasized Sarah's height and the black fringe on her bra helped her waist appear slim and sculpted. Being stretch velvet, it's both easy wear and easy care (machine wash, hang dry.) I look forward to seeing her wear it in the future.

Need a Headdress?
Wicked Smileys by Sarah Lyons

Need Harem Pants?
Simply Stylish by Kathi Richards

Need a Byzantium Bra?
Byzantium Collection Bra by Davina
Dress, Belt, Jewelry by Davina

Bras of the Stars - Update

The Dancing with the Stars season is almost over, and Threads Magazine has posted a fantastic interview with the designer of all those sizzling hot costumes, the Emmy Award winning Randall Christensen. The gallery on his website has both front and back images of his designs, including many a fantastic ensemble that can be transformed, adapted or just used as is for belly dance. Although the prices are steep, I know many a dancer who has paid a princely sum for a unique costume.

I - for one - am totally inspired by his designs and really enjoyed his interview! Other pieces on him and his designs include:

Buddy TV has a great interview with Randall Christensen on their site.
Phoenix New Times - Another Article about the designer

His website is not to be missed! You could own a costume from Dancing with the Stars like the one on the left. Perfect for a sexy zambra mora, flamenco fusion, or Gypsy inspired performance. Totally couture!

#68L-0106-CA-JF
Peasant Top/Floral Skirt Latin Dress. Worn by Edyta Sliwinska Dancing the Paso Doble in Show #4. Size S. Price: $3200.

Resources for Re-enactors

I've been recently spent some quality time working on a research project. A book I began quite some time ago, is rapidly reaching its deadline, and so I dusted it off and started looking through my notes. To refresh my mind, I took a moment to do a quick internet search for new sources, and I found a few things that you might be interested in. I hope you enjoy these links and find them as valuable and interesting as I do.

This upcoming book Period Impressions for Dancers and Musicians will be a handy resource for SCA members, Renaissance Fair performers and performers looking for historic folkloric costumes to wear during traditional dances. Look for more information for

~ Davina ~

Metropolitan Museum of Art hosts the Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History which has images, contextual articles that presents the flow of art history. There are quite a few articles about the Middle East, Islamic art and its relationship with the west. I particularly love this textile fragment. Read more about it and other works of art on their website.

If you are interested in the traditional dress of Saudi Arabia, there is an excellent website hosted by the Mansoojat Foundation, a UK charitable organization whose mission is to preserve and document the traditional clothes of Saudi Arabia. Their website is filled with gorgeous images of thobes from various parts of the country, with documentary text and descriptions. It's worth taking some time to check it out.

The entire book, Oriental Costumes, their Designs and Colors by Max Tilke from 1922 is available for view from the Reference Department of the Indiana University Libraries.

Tilke's finely rendered drawings of traditional garments from accross North Africa, the Middle East, Asia Minor, Central and Eastern Asia. His drawing allows us to identify the textile as an Ikat, and you can see the locations of the seams. This book is an excellent tool if you are trying to create a period dance piece, or are looking for models to inspire a historical costume.

US Belly Dance Belts Thinner than Italian Belts

Italian promotional poster - From Russia with Love - including fantastic belly dance image and Gypsy chick fight. Which got me wondering - what does the English language version look like? So I looked around and found the US version... Check out the differences in what the belly dancer is wearing. In the US version her costume belt is far lower and she is drawn with more clarity and detail. The artwork looks less like the same artist, and more like it was "redrawn" to produce a more aesthetically or culturally appealing message.


If you are interested in seeing

Bras of the Stars

Showgirls are Showgirls... Belly Dancers, Burlesque, Broadway, Vegas.. we all have one thing in common - we all LOVE to wear a hot and spicy embellished bra!

This season on Dancing With the Stars, we've been treated to a host of incredibly sexy, complex and lovely dance bras. Here are just a few of my favorites.

This first bra worn by Melissa Rycroft is cute-cute-cute. The bra has been worked into a cute little cropped top with a ruffled edge around the neckline and adorable cap sleeves. This style of top would look fantastic with a Mediterranean fusion costume. And isn't that jeans-style belt treatment adorable?

Another fantastic ensemble is this light and fluffy two-piece ensemble worn by Edyta. Her bra is covered with rows of pleated fabric applied as a surface embellishment. This technique, used for centuries is known as ruching and is very popular in formal and ready-to-wear as well as dance costuming.

This costume is so fantastic, had such great flow, I couldn't help but imagine an entire troupe in this simple, yet elegant ensemble. The sleeve treatment is fantastic, and though Edyta doesn't need them, they would cover a multitude of problems.

The silk has such dramatic flow, fluffy and light. This patterned effect can be achieved with a spray-bottle of dye or fabric paint. Just be sure to use a light hand as you spritz your fabric and follow the directions of the product you choose to use.
(Check Dharma Trading, they have a large selection and tons of information on dye, fabric and dying techniques.)

One inexpensive and easy to make style of bra is simply a "shimmy bra" covered with rows of rayon chainette fringe. This lovely ensemble features a parti-colored two-toned color scheme made with four rows of 2" fringe. Here Jullianne wears one, beautifully exicuted, proving that simple can look fantastic!

For dancers with petite bustlines, this style will add fullness when still and tons of movement as you dance. A simple row of sparkling trim can be achieved with rows of sequins, glass beads or a rich combination of beads and sequins together. To make a completely matching bra and belt, echo the same number of rows of fringe. Or, if you are feeling particularly flirty, you could make a straight skirt with a long slit, and apply rows of chainette all the way to the ankle.

Alternately, a chainette belt will look fantastic with a classic chiffon skirt or over a slinky mermaid skirt. You can find chainette fringe on the web. I buy mine from Lace & Trim online, but chainette is available from most retail fabric stores.

So if you are looking for inspiration visit the ABC website to view photos and full-length episodes of the latest season.